Little Epiphanies

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  • The World at the End of the Line

    The World at the End of the Line

    On a whim, I took the subway to the very last station. Heading for the outskirts of the city is like rumbling across the troubled expanse of  20th Century Argentina. You descend through preening stations of ornate tile proud to be gateways to the first underground system in South America but you exit from stations…

  • Virgin of the High Waters

    Virgin of the High Waters

    When the river started to rise, they busied themselves getting everything as high up as they could. They threw ropes over the rafters and hoisted furniture into the air. A dining room table and its chairs became an elaborate swaying chandelier. They drove the livestock to the highest part of this rolling, water-logged terrain. “The…

  • A Freer Way to Tango

    A Freer Way to Tango

    I was fortunate to be present at the birth of this movement when Augusto organized the first gay milongas in Buenos Aires. Lalo and Roxana Gargano went table to table offering plates of cookies they’d brought from their family’s bakery. It was all very homespun. Nevertheless, we sensed that something momentous was happening that night.…

  • Such Splendid Creatures

    Such Splendid Creatures

    Thank you for your letter. I am well. It has been a trying time. But now the storm has passed and the detritus left in its wake is treasure. I reap the richness now. Scattered seeds are punching up through the hard soil. Their birth was troubled — but isn’t it from such couplings that…

  • Write Thank-you Notes

    Write Thank-you Notes

    My mother believed that you could make the world a better place through little gestures. Flowers in a vase. Hosting a party. Sharing a piece of chocolate. Telling a grocery clerk that they had done a great job. Encouraging her children to “try and look cute.” Her life, like all lives, was touched by tragedy…

  • Hot Tango

    Hot Tango

    Walking toward the milonga in the late afternoon, I hadn’t noticed the lack of light in the buildings I passed. Long golden rays of sunset shot down the cross streets. But when I saw two women leaving — two hard-core milongueras, the sort who stayed till the very last note — I knew something was…